DISNEYLAND CRAG
ROUTE LIST
LOOKOUT WALL - Wall below the lookout
  • Outlook 12A ** 60 ft Sport - Start below lookout. Climb crack system (#8 nut) for about 10 feet and traverse left onto the face between the first and second bolt.
  • Conan, What’s Good in Life 10A *** 60 ft Trad- Crack system to anchors. Same start as previous route.
  • Thumbs Up 11C * 40 ft Sport - Start 10 ft right. Climb the bolted face to anchors.
  • Boulevard of Broken Dreams 11A *** 80 ft Sport - About 40 feet right. Stickclip the first bolt.
  • Hamster and Duet Tape 5.9 70 ft Trad - Climb the long corner.
  • The Road Less Travelled 5.11D * 70 ft Sport – Twenty feet right. Climbs the first 3 bolt of Sanctuary and left.
  • Sanctuary 5.11D *** 70 ft Sport – Up the center of the face. Shares the first bolt with Lamentations.
  • Hear the Lamentations of the Women 10D ** 60 ft Sport - Climb the bolted face and arete to anchors.
    WHITE WALL –  Very steep at the right end about 200 ft past the previous route.
  • Mufusa 12D *** 80 ft Sport – Steep - overhangs, corners and face to anchors.
  • The Little Doubt 12A *50 ft Sport - Climb overhanging face, corner and overhang to anchors. Steep.
  • Around the Corner 10C  - 60 ft Mixed – face, roof and wide crack
    CATWALK WALL -  250 yards further along the cliff and cross a narrow ledge.
  • Pied Piper 5.10C ** 60 ft Sport - Left bolted face route.
  • TR 11D  – top rope the face right of PP from PP anchors. Usually wet.
  • The Mole 12B ***70 ft sport – face where the trail hits the cliff
    RODENT WALL - This sector is located a few hundred feet further along the cliff.
  • Kingdom of the Rodent 11D ** 60 ft Sport – The first line of bolts.
  • Man of La Mantle 11C ** 60 ft Sport - Climb the bulge a few feet right of Kingdom to the top.
  • Mickey’s Mantle 11B * 60 ft Sport – May want to stick clip. Start a few feet right of La Mantle.
  • Mousetrap 10A*** 80 ft Sport – Climb the right wall of the corner and face.
  • Of Mice and Men 11D *** 50 ft Sport - Climb up the face right and then left of the arete.
  • Feeding the Rat 12B *** 50 ft Sport – Shares first 3 bolts with King Rat. Angle back left through the black striped steep rock after the third bolt
  • King Rat 12B *** 100 ft Sport –Use first 3 bolts of Feeding, angle right at the fourth bolt. Don’t pull too hard on the delicate flakes on the traverse. A 60-meter rope is required. Twelve draws plus anchor draws. Some longer draws are needed to reduce rope drag. Will need a second to retrieve the draws.
  • Mickey is a Rat 11D * 100 ft Sport –Start at a block with a fin shaped feature. Stickclip the first bolt. A few longer draws are needed to reduce rope drag. 60-meter rope is required. Ten draws plus anchor are required. Will need a second to retrieve the draws.
  • Rat Warm Up 10A - Previous route to anchors of The Plague.
  • The Plague 12B/C *** 40 ft Sport -10 feet right.
  • Cornered Rat 12A * 40 ft Sport – Ten feet right. Climb pockets, corner and face to anchors below the roof.
  • Super Ratton 12D *** 70 ft Sport – Continuation of Cornered Rat thru the roof.
    BALANCED BLOCK SECTOR – Continue along the cliff and pass under a huge balanced boulder.
  • Name Unknown 10D** Trad. - clean finger crack behind the balanced block to anchors
  • Empty Pockets 12C*** Sport – Left Bolted route
  • My Obsession 12B *** 75 ft Sport - Climb the central of the three bolted routes. Stickclip the first bolt.
  • Bob’s World 11A *** 70 ft Sport – Right hand bolted route Stickclip the first bolt.
  • Hip Parade 11B * 70 ft Sport – About 70 ft further. Climb the left sidewall of a steep wall.. Stickclip bolt 1.
  • Crack in the Cosmic Egg 12A  25 ft TR –Finger crack right of Hip Parade. Set up TR from Hip Parade.
  • Name Unknown 13A *** 80 ft Sport - face to extremely steep steep wall. At the ledge move right into the cave up a few feet and back left.
  • Bats in the Belfry 11A  40 ft. Sport – About 30 feet further right. Overhanging corner. A few small nuts are useful. Stickclip bolt 1.
    Bob Bennell
    JUNE 1/2001
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