Supra Maintenance and Modifications

My 4 Supras

I have done some simple things to my Supras to improve performance, handling, braking and appearance.

In its current state, my 1983 Supra has run the quarter mile in 16.1 seconds at 84.3 MPH. For comparison, when the car was new, professional drivers got it to run the quarter mile in 16.8 seconds at 82 MPH.

                    Custom Cool Air Intake
                    Catback Exhaust System
                    Air Flow Meter
      * New * Weight Reduction
                    Suspension Upgrades
                    Brake Upgrades
                    Short Shifter
                    Re-wiring Foglights
                    Converting Foglights to Driving Lights
                    Cleaning Stock Rims
                    Refinishing Valve Covers
                    Replacing Rocker Panel Moldings
                    Changing Dash Display Colours

Standard Disclaimer: These modifications worked for me on my 1983 Supra. I try to describe them as clearly as possible. I make no warranty that they will work on your car. Attempting these on your car may not work due to wiring, etc that may vary from one model year to another. Try them at your own risk.
All text and images are Copyrighted 2002 by Dean Anderson. Not to be used without express written permission.

Custom Cool Air Intake

I have improved the stock intake system to allow the engine to breathe easier. These modifications include putting in a high flow cone filter and adding ducting to get cool air from outside the engine bay flowing into the filter. In addition, the resonator has been replaced with a straight piece of 3 inch diameter thin-walled stainless steel piping. I'm currently fine-tuning the cool air intake setup, testing various designs. Tests to date have shown dramatic drops in intake air temperatures are possible, with no added airflow restrictions. More tests are still being conducted as I try to improve the design.

Intake temperatures were measured with a small thermocouple inserted into the intake air stream just before the throttle body and are given in degrees F.
Note: Every 10 deg F reduction in intake air temp gains you 1.8% more power, or approx 3 HP.
All tests were conducted with a fully warmed up engine bay, after having driven the car for at least one hour. The temperatures were recorded while driving at 60 MPH in 5th gear for a long enough period for the temperature readings to become stable.

Numbers shown are the measured intake temperature increase over the outdoor ambient temperature.

K&N filter in drilled airbox, fenderwell hole, 50 deg outside.     +30 deg

Cone filter, no cool air pipe, fenderwell hole, 93 deg outside.     +30 deg
Cone filter, with cool air pipe and heat shield, 93 deg outside.     +19 deg   ~   11 deg F drop

Cone filter, no cool air pipe, fenderwell hole, 80 deg outside.     +31 deg
Cone filter, with cool air pipe and heat shield, 80 deg outside.     +21 deg   ~   10 deg F drop

Cone filter, with cool air pipe and heat shield, 80 deg outside.     +19 deg

K&N filter in drilled airbox shown below:

Intake Piping Drilled Airbox
Intake Resonator Replaced

New Cool Air Pipe and prototype Heat Shield shown below:

Cool Air Pipe leads to opening in front airdam Cardboard Template of Heat Shield

An improved design has been tested on my 82 Supra at the track. Trapspeeds were increased by 1.5 MPH, indicating a gain of approx 10 HP from the cold air intake.

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Exhaust Header

Raptor Racing makes a beautiful header for the 5M-GE, 6M-GE and 7M-GE engines. It is a 6 into 1 header, with a 2.5 inch diameter outlet pipe. It has been dyno tested and proven to gain 10 HP at the rear wheels. I have installed one on my white 83 and it is a great product. George at Raptor Racing is a fantastic guy to deal with. Check out his website at

I have a Pacesetter header on one of my Supras.
I am planning on modifying the header to improve flow. The current setup has cylinders 1-3 being collected into one 2 inch pipe, and cylinders 4-6 being collected in another 2 inch pipe. These two collectors then join into a single 2 inch pipe which leads to the catalytic converter. I'm planning on having them collect into a single 2.5 inch pipe to improve flow.

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Catback Exhaust System

This catback exhaust was manufactured by Brullen Exhaust in Toronto. It is all stainless steel construction, using 2.25 inch diameter piping and a high flow muffler. It gives the car a nice deep growl at idle and sounds nice when you get on the gas. Not overly loud, some people have said my car sounds like an exotic European sports car. In any case, it allows the engine to breathe easier, and gives a slight power gain at the higher revs.
Brullen Exhaust has gone out of business so this exhaust system is no longer available.

Raptor Racing makes a very nice stainless steel exhaust for the Supra. It is available in 2.5 inch and 3 inch versions. Check out

Mk2 Supra Exhaust tips MkII Supra Exhaust tips
2 Exhaust Pieces as received Exhaust Ready to Install on my 1983 Supra

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Air Flow Meter

This is a mod to improve throttle response slightly. Be warned, this may also decrease your gas mileage slightly.

If you have already replaced the stock intake and exhaust systems with improved versions to allow the engine to breathe easier, you may have noticed an annoying "Check Engine" light coming on at the bottom of the dash under some circumstances. This usually happens when you are cruising at a constant speed on the highway and then press the gas pedal slightly to accelerate. The "Check Engine" light may come on for a few seconds and then go out. If you check the error codes stored by the ECU (Electronic Control Unit, or engine computer), you will likely find an Oxygen sensor code. This indicates that the engine is running slightly lean when you first press the gas after cruising at constant speed. Adjusting the Air Flow Meter (AFM) should eliminate this annoying little problem.

For an excellent write-up describing how to adjust the AFM, go to Wes Hetrick's page.   He has an easy to follow procedure with pictures.

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Weight Reduction

Removing weight from a car will improve acceleration. Careful removal of weight from the right places will also improve the car's balance and handling. The Celica Supra is fairly well balanced, having a 53% front / 47% rear weight ratio. Removal of weight from the front of the car will help to improve this, getting closer to the ideal 50/50 balance. If the air conditioning is not working and you have no plans to fix it, you can remove the compressor and its bracket along with the condenser, fan and bracket. This removes 40 pounds from the very front end of the car. I have removed about 130 pounds from my 83 Supra by removing the A/C, spare tire and a few other small parts. It now weighs approximately 2800 lbs, compared to the factory curb weight of 2932 lbs. My 82 Supra has been lightened by approximately 450 lbs. I have compiled an updated (January 2009) listing of weights of various parts in the 1982 to 1986 Celica Supra. Look at the table of weights for more info.

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Suspension Upgrades

I upgraded the suspension on my 1983 Celica Supra in the summer of 2001. This made a big difference to the way the car handles. The ride is a lot firmer, but still not really harsh. The car handles much better, staying flatter in the corners, and does not squat nearly as much when launching hard from a stop.
Overall, a very worthwhile upgrade over the stock setup.

Eibach Pro Kit (4 springs) - These lower the car by approx 1". Cost approx $300 Cdn.

Front Struts
Tokico - High Performance (HP) - Part number HZ3062 - Approx $90 Cdn each.

Rear Shocks
Tokico - High Performance (HP) - Part number HE2483 - Approx $60 Cdn each.

Total cost - Approx $600 Cdn for 4 springs, 2 struts and 2 shocks.

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Brake Upgrades

The following is a very simple and inexpensive way to upgrade the Mk2 Supra braking system.
I did this in the summer of 2000 and noticed an improvement in braking power, with reduced brake fade. If you plan to make your car go faster, you should also plan to make it stop faster, for the safety of yourself and others on the road.

Replace all 4 rotors with new Brembo OEM rotors.   Cost approx $250 Cdn.
Use KVR Carbon Fiber brake pads at all 4 wheels.   Cost approx $140 Cdn.
Flush entire brake system with DOT 4 brake fluid.   Cost approx   $10 Cdn.
(Flush should be done every couple of years)
Total cost:   Approx $400 Cdn.

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Short Shifter

This section describes how to shorten the stock shifter. Most people find that it is a bit too tall, and looks like it belongs in a truck, not a sports car!

Note that this will shorten the shifter height, but will not shorten the shift throw. It will also not change the angle of the shifter lever significantly.

First of all, you should definitely get a spare shifter from a junkyard. That way, if you break or melt something important, your car is not out of service. They are cheap, and you can get one from any 1982 through 1985 Celica or Supra, so they are easy to find. I think I paid $10 for one at a local U-Pull yard a few years ago.

If you notice any looseness or "slop" in your shifter, be sure to replace the rubber lever seat that the large metal ball rests on as well as the plastic bushing at the very end of the shifter where it goes into the top of the transmission.
These must be purchased from a Toyota dealer, and will cost about $20 for the pair. Be sure to get them before you begin this procedure, since you don't want to tear apart the console and shifter twice when you only need to do it once. Toyota part numbers are:
Rubber lever seat: 33505-35020
Nylon bushing: 33548-31010

Note that this is really hard to describe in writing, but is pretty self-explanatory when you start to do it!

  1. Remove the rubber radio surround, then remove the two pieces of the console.
  2. Remove the shift knob from the top of the shift lever by turning it counterclockwise.
  3. Remove the leather shift boot by lifting it off the top of the shift lever.
  4. Lift the rubber boot around the bottom of the shifter and remove the 4 bolts you exposed.
  5. Lift the metal frame, then lift up the small square black rubber seal.
  6. Remove the 4 bolts from the metal plate with the dome in the middle.
  7. Pull your shift lever straight up and out.
  8. Remove the large upper rubber boot by pulling it up towards the top of the chrome upper shift lever. Use a small flat head screwdriver to stretch the small hole at the bottom of this rubber boot over the bottom of the chrome piece. It is tight, but it will stretch enough to fit over it. Remove this rubber boot completely to avoid melting it in the following steps. It is not necessary to remove the smaller square black rubber seal that attached to the domed metal plate.
  9. Look at where the thin metal lower shift lever attaches to the larger chrome upper shift lever. You will see that they are joined together with a rubber bushing. You need to melt this bushing in order to separate the two pieces.
  10. Take the chrome piece and clamp the top of it securely in a vice, being careful not to damage the threads at the very top. Clamp large vice grips tightly on the thin inner piece such that they are keeping the small square black rubber seal, domed metal plate and spring pushed down towards the bottom. Put on some thick leather gloves. Light up a propane torch and start to heat the chrome piece with a gentle (yellow) flame. Do not heat the thin inner piece. Use the vice grips to twist out the thin inner piece while heating the chrome piece.
  11. After about a minute or two, you will see some smoke coming from the bushings and may hear some popping sounds as they melt. Keep twisting the thin inner piece until it comes out. Once it comes out, stop heating immediately and let all the parts cool before proceding. Get a drink of water, and if you don't finish it, douse the smoking-hot chrome piece with any you have left.
  12. I have done this with a few shifters and have always ended up with rubber bushing near the top of the inside of the thick chrome piece, and some rubber bushing remaining on the thin inner piece.
  13. When you try to reassemble the two pieces, you will see that the thin inner piece goes in about a half inch further than where it used to sit, but the rubber bushing on the thin piece is stopping it from sliding in farther, as it hits the rubber bushing that remains in the chrome piece.
  14. Use a grinder or knife to remove the upper inch or so of the rubber bushing off the top of the thin inner piece. A grinder works best as the bushing is very difficult to cut with a knife. Leave some of the bushing at the bottom. This will help to stop vibrations from the transmission from being felt in the shift lever.
  15. Looking into the chrome piece, you will see that the rubber bushing has a hole in the centre that goes about a half inch deep into the bushing. Use an electric drill with a 3/8 inch bit to make this hole in the centre of the rubber bushing go all the way through the rubber bushing. This will allow the top of the thin piece to sit deeper into the upper piece.
  16. Round off any sharp edges on the end of the thin piece so it will slide into the hole in the centre of the other bushing easier. Use a grinder or a file to do this. Then stick it back in, and push it in as far as it will go. Twisting while pushing helps it slide in easier. This should shorten the overall shifter length by about 1.5 inches. The rubber bushing should be enough to hold the two pieces together temporarily for a test fitting in the car.
  17. When you are happy with the look and length of the shifter, pull the two pieces apart and replace the rubber boot on the chrome piece. If you removed the small square black rubber seal, domed metal plate and spring, put them back on the thin inner piece now. Re-insert the thin inner piece into the chrome piece.
  18. Next, you need to fasten the thin inner piece to the chrome piece again. Make sure they are securely fastened. You can either spot weld them together, or use JB Weld or a 2 part epoxy to permanently "glue" them together.
  19. Put the shift knob back on and put everything back together. You can use your stock shift knob or any aftermarket threaded knob.

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Re-wiring Foglights

The foglights integrated into the front bumper of the Mk2 Supra can make excellent driving lights or daytime running lights. The only problem is that they are wired such that they can only be switched on when the low beam headlights are on.

It is possible to re-wire the foglights so that they can be switched on at any time the ignition is on.

Rewired Foglights on my 1983 Celica Supra Foglights at Night

This is a 30 minute job. Here are step-by-step instructions:

  1. Remove the centre console from between the two front seats. To do this, remove the four screws from the sides of the console, two near the front and two near the rear. Then remove the two screws in the console storage compartment under the centre armrest.
  2. Using a voltmeter, find the wire that leads to the foglight switch that has power when the switch is off and the low beam headlights are on. On my 83 Supra, this is the "red with a black stripe" wire. You will need to either remove this one wire from the switch or cut the wire about three inches before it goes to the switch. In either case, be sure to wrap the exposed end of the wire in electrical tape to avoid short circuits.
  3. Using a voltmeter, find the wire that leads to the power mirror switch that has 12V power when the ignition is ON. On my 1983 Supra, the "red with a green stripe" wire brings power to the mirror switch. Simply use a knife and carefully strip away about an eighth of an inch of insulation from this wire, being careful not to cut the wire. Now, use a short piece of wire to take power from this bare spot to the foglight switch. Solder this spot if possible. Cover the connection at the bare spot with black electrical tape. Connect the other end to the foglight switch where you removed the "red with a black stripe" wire or solder it to the end of the three inch piece of wire that you left attached to the switch. Solder them together if possible. Cover any exposed wire with electrical tape.
Test the operation of the foglights and headlights before re-installing the centre console.
The foglights should now switch on and off with the switch in the centre console, regardless of whether the headlights are on or off.
As a final test, turn the headlights off and turn the foglights on. Be sure that the headlights are not ON when they are in the down position when the foglight switch is on. If they are, you have not cut the wire leading from the headlights to the foglight switch as outlined in step 2 above, and power is being back-fed from the foglights to the headlights. This could cause an electrical fire, as this thin wiring is not meant to carry the high current necessary to operate the headlights.

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Converting Foglights to Driving Lights

The foglights integrated into the front bumper of the Supra can be altered to give a lighting pattern much more like driving lights or daytime running lights. This is done by removing the metal deflector plate that is inside the light housing, positioned just in front of the halogen bulb.

In order to remove this deflector plate, you will need to remove the glass from the foglight housing. This can be done by heating the edge of the metal housing with a heat gun or a gentle yellow flame from a plumbers propane torch. This will soften the adhesive used to hold the glass onto the metal. Gently pry out the glass. Then, grind off the rivets that hold the little metal deflector in front of the bulb. Remove deflector. Clean everything up. Seal glass back in place. Be sure to use a sealant that can handle reasonably high temperatures as these lights can get pretty hot.

I put them in both the red 1984 Supra and the white 1983 Supra, and all I can say is WOW! What a difference in light output! No need to get higher wattage bulbs, these things look as bright as headlights now! The light pattern is still wide like before (due to the flutes in the glass lens which disperse the light side to side) but the pattern has been lengthened, allowing them to light up the road a much longer distance ahead of the car. The light pattern is much more like a true driving light now. After testing these on country roads at night, I would recommend that you still use your headlights at night. These modified foglights still do not light up the road far enough ahead for you to drive safely at night without headlights.

If you use your foglights as daytime running lights then I would recommend this mod.

Altering Foglights for 1984 Supra

Altering Foglights for Mk2 Supra

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Cleaning Stock Rims

I decided to put some P-type rims on my 83 L-type, since I had 8 spares from two 1982 Supra parts cars that I bought. I looked into getting them refinished professionally, but it would have cost $100 each. I decided to try to refinish some myself and see how they turned out.

The P-type rims did not have a clear coat on 1982 Supras. Toyota started putting the clear coat on the rims in 1983, at least up here in Canada. If your rims have clearcoat, you'll need to remove it with a paint stripper. See Greg G's excellent write-up for info on how he refinished his rims.

All 8 of my rims were really beat looking. They were covered with brake dust that was ground into the rims. I tried power washing and lots of cleaners! None of them would get them clean.

Finally, I decided to try fine sandpaper, and it did the trick. I used 400 grit emery paper to start, and it removed the brake dust and other baked on crap really well. I used this in the non-polished areas and on the polished areas. Be careful on the polished areas and don't rub too hard, or you may make deep scratches. At this point, you need to choose whether or not you want to remove the old machining lines that are on the spokes. I decided to remove them to get the smoothest, most mirror-like finish. Greg G. chose to keep the lines, since he wanted a totally stock look. Be warned, using the emery paper will remove these fine lines.

When all the brake dust is loosened up, switch to 600 grit emery paper and repeat. Then switch to 1000 grit emery paper, and polish the spokes and lip. You can do this with the paper either wet or dry, I found it easier when dry. Final polish should be done with a good aluminum polish on a cloth. I used Mothers Aluminum Mag Wheel polish, and it worked well.

Expect to spend about 2 hours per wheel on this, and to have very sore hands afterwards. Wear gloves. I did one wheel per day, for two days, took a week off for my hands to recover, then did the other 2.

Next step is to mask off all the polished areas and then clean and spray paint the non-polished areas the color of your choice. Be sure to mask off the tire if it is still mounted, you don't want silver tires. Also mask off the inside of the hub and the holes for the lugs. I used some silver spray paint. A semi-flat gray may look more like stock. Silver looks a little brighter/flashier. Lots of people with black cars paint them black. It makes the polished areas stand out even more than mine. To avoid drips and sags in the paint, apply it in about 3 or 4 thin coats. Allow each coat to dry to the touch before putting on the next coat. Vary your angle of attack with the spray can to get all areas evenly covered.

When the paint is dry, remove the masking tape, and get a very fine brush and some black enamel to paint the little indented lines in the spokes. Take your time on this, or get a friend with a steady hand to help you out. Paint the bottom of the valley and the side walls of the valley black. If you get some on the polished face of the spoke, just let it dry and scrape the excess off later with your fingernail. Some people choose to paint these stripes the same color as their car (red, white, black, yellow, whatever). I also painted the little JWL raised logo black with this very fine brush.

You can see the results below, in the before and after pictures.

Refinished 1982 Supra rims

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Refinishing Valve Covers

The valve covers on most 82-85 Supras tend to look a bit ragged after a while. They can be easily removed (by removing 4 phillips head screws) and re-painted the color of your choice. This is a fairly simple procedure, and can be done in a few hours.

Remove the large phillips screws and remove the valve covers. Use paint stripper or sandpaper to remove any remaining paint on them. If you like, you can remove any rough casting marks from them using a dremel tool.

Using emery paper, polish the tops of the raised portions of the valve covers. Start with about 400 grit, then use 600, then 1000 grit paper. Finally, polish them with a good aluminum polish.

Use masking tape to protect areas that you don't want to get painted, such as the undersides, the area where the oil cap threads onto, etc. Place pennies in the holes where the phillips screws were. Paint the entire valve cover with a high temperature paint in the colour of your choice. Use multiple light coats of spray paint. If you wish to get a low gloss finish with a slight wrinkle look to it (like the factory finish) try applying the very light final coat keeping the spray can about 2 to 3 feet above the parts. That way, the fine drops of paint are starting to dry before they hit the part and they give a lower gloss wrinkle look.

After the parts are dry, use a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove the paint from the polished areas, being careful not to touch the paint on the lower areas.

Here is a picture of the valve covers, before and after re-finishing. In the bottom picture, the bottom of the two valve covers still needs to have the paint removed from the polished raised portions. The pennies still need to be removed from the screw holes in both valve covers.

Valve Covers

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Replacing Rocker Panel Moldings

The rocker panel trim pieces are nearly impossible to find in good condition for a good price. Used ones are almost always rusty. Toyota wants about $200 each for new ones. If you want to try a much cheaper route when replacing the rocker panel trim, read on.

Go to your favorite Home Depot or other building supply store and check out their selection of wood molding (like you would put up around a door or use as a baseboard). Find one that has a similar profile to the rocker panel molding, cut it to length, alter the profile slightly with a hand plane if needed, and paint it black. Put on a few coats of paint to seal the wood well. I tried this on my 84 P-type project car, and it looked good. I've had many comments on it. Nobody can believe that its wood! It looks better than old, imperfect rocker panel moldings that are loose or bulged with rust pockets. It is held on with the 3 original screws (countersunk into the wood) at the normal mounting locations. I suspect it may rot after a few years, maybe sooner, maybe later, depending on how often it gets wet, how well the paint seals it, if the car is garage kept, winter driven, etc, etc. However, it was really inexpensive, costing about $10 to do both sides. This idea can save you some $$$ if you don't care about having a 100% original look.

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Changing Dash Display Colours

The dash on all 82-85 Supras had a green display. Green was the "IN" colour in the early 80's, but tends to look a bit dated now. My 83 Supra has a blue interior, so I decided to change the dash lights and instrument cluster backlighting from green to blue. I also tried red, and it looks great, especially if you have a red interior. This is a fairly simple procedure, and can be done in a couple of hours.

The first step is to find new light bulbs for the instrument cluster. You can find replacement bulbs with blue or red glass at most high performance automotive shops, as many people choose to use them (illegally) in their front marker lights. You will need 5 of the number 194 bulbs, in the colour of your choice. They should cost approx $4 per pair.

The next step is to find little "condoms" in the colour of your choice to wrap around the other dash lights. There is a small light on the climate control panel, and small bulbs in the cruise and rear defroster controls that mount in the pods on the side of the cluster shroud on the 82 and 83 models. Alternatively, you may choose to simply remove the green "condoms" that are already in place on the lights, giving the remainder of the dash a more-or-less white appearance. I found these little "condoms" at an electronics parts store. Just look for an electronics parts store that sells stuff like transistors, resistors, capacitors, potentiometers, LEDs, etc. I got enough to do all my various sized dash lights for about 2 or 3 dollars.

Now, simply remove the cluster and replace all the light bulbs that give the cluster its backlighting. You will find that they have green condoms on them in the 84-85 clusters. The 82-83 clusters use plastic covers that need to be removed from the inside of the cluster. Extra steps for disassembly are included below if you have an 82-83 model and need to disassemble the cluster.

Here are the best step-by step instructions I can give you for removal of the cluster.

  1. First of all, you will find that removing the cluster is made difficult due to the speedometer cable being very tight. It makes it tough to get enough room to get your hands in behind the cluster to unhook the speedo cable. To make it much easier, look under the hood and remove the bolt that holds the speedo cable to the firewall. Then push a couple of inches of newly available slack in the speedo cable through the rubber grommet in the firewall. Cluster removal will be made much easier.
  2. Get your head down low and look up at the bottom side of the cluster hood, right above the speedo and tach. You should see two phillips screws up there that you need to remove.
  3. Pull out the dimmer knob and pop off the little trim plate that surrounds it (about 1 inch tall by 2.5 inches wide). Get down low and look up into that hole. Remove the screw up there that goes into the bottom of the cluster hood.
  4. Pop off the similar sized little trim plate (with sticker that says unleaded fuel only) on the right side of the steering wheel. Get down low and look up into that hole. I think there are 2 screws up there that go into the bottom of the cluster hood that need to be removed.
  5. Remove the hood by lifting upwards to remove the metal clips that slide down onto steel plates near those bottom screws you removed on the left side.
  6. Remove the 4 screws that hold the cluster to the metal support behind it.
  7. Pull the cluster straight out towards the steering wheel. Get your hand in behind the cluster and remove the wiring plugs. Squeeze the round clip on the speedo cable and pull it straight out of the back of the cluster.
  8. Remove the cluster from the car.

If your car is an 84 or 85 model, you simply need to remove the 5 sockets that contain the bulbs that provide the backlighting of the cluster. You can either remove the green condoms and replace them with the colour of your choice, or replace the bulbs with coloured glass bulbs.

If your car is an 82 or 83 model, you will need to continue with the following steps to disassemble the cluster in order to remove the coloured plastic covers inside.

If you are nervous, try this on an old cluster that you don't care about for practice. You might find one at a junkyard.

  1. Remove the ends off the rods used to set the clock and trip odometer. One unscrews, the other has a tiny phillips head screw holding it on.
  2. Look at the rear of the cluster and remove the two screws at the very bottom, near the centre, that hold on the clear plastic cover.
  3. Remove the clear plastic face and the black plastic trim by pushing in the black tabs and pulling the black and clear pieces straight out. There are 4 tabs on the top, 2 on the bottom, and one on each side near the bottom. It may stick a bit, but will come off.
  4. Remove every screw that you see on the rear of the cluster. Keep track of which screws go where, since you'll need to put them back eventually. These screws hold in the gauges and make their electrical connections to the plastic circuit board on the rear. Those screws are all that holds the black face with all the speedo, tach and gauge markings in place.
  5. Gently pull the black face away from the white plastic case. If you missed any screws, you will notice it now.
  6. Remove the green hard plastic covers by turning them counterclockwise.
  7. Re-assemble the cluster, being careful to put all the various sized screws in their original locations.

Here are pictures of the instrument cluster, with blue lights and red lights.

Blue Dash Lights

Red Dash Lights

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All text and images are Copyrighted 2002 by Dean Anderson. Not to be used without express written permission.