Most evergreens prefer moist, well drained soils. Cedars however are the exception and tolerate wet soils. Pine and Spruce hate to have wet feet. Evergreens generally prefer sunny locations. The following will grow in moderate shade: Austrian Pine, Cedar, Japanese Yews, Savin and Spartan Junipers.

Evergreens are fertilized early in the spring, or in late fall after growth stops. Evergreen fertilizer 12-4-8 at 4 oz. per 10 sq. ft. ( 100g per 15 m2 ) of soil is spread uniformly underneath the plants.

Evergreens should be pruned to maintain the symmetry and beauty of the specimen and to correct any faults. All evergreens adapt themselves more or less to pruning any time during the year, however, the months June and July are ideal. A second light pruning can be done at the end of September.

Before the plants reach their ultimate size in the landscape they should be pruned. Once an evergreen outgrows its given space it is next to impossible to cut it back more than 6" ( 15 cm ) without spoiling it.

A. PRUNING JUNIPERS: When pruning spreading evergreens you should try and maintain its natural shape. In late spring, cut back the branch close to a young new growth, which will hide the wound. The pruning process will make the plant bushier.

B. PRUNING PINE: Mugho Pine are trimmed to ensure compact growth; this is done when the ‘candle’ or new growth is still soft and growing so that new buds will be formed on the pinched candle. If trimming is delayed until growth has stopped new buds do not form and unsightly stubs are left. The end of June and or the beginning of July is the time to prune Mugho Pine. Mugho Pine are normally pruned yearly and about half of the new candle length is removed. Pruning older wood does not improve the habit of loose-growing specimens, as growth is not regenerated from old stems.

Scotch Pine: Also benefit from pruning to ensure compactness. In the last week of June or the first week of July, the terminal and side branches can be pruned to about 12" ( 30 cm ) and 8" ( 20 cm ) respectively. At this time a cluster of new buds will form just below where the cut was made. The pruning period for pine in general is critical because at other times the stubs do not produce buds and will therefore die. Therefore die. Therefore, you can not prune second or third year growth because no adventitious buds are present to produce new shoots.

Other pine: Prune pine candles in late spring, while still young; numerous branches will form next growing season. If the practice is continued, trees will have dense foliage.

C. PRUNING SPRUCE: Spruce trees can also be made thicker and more compact by pruning. Spruce form side buds along their twigs and the pruning should be done in such a way that some of the side buds are left to develop new growth. Pruning of spruce is not so time critical as it is with pine and it may be delayed until late summer.

New evergreen plantings will benefit from mulching the root area to prevent freezing and thawing during the winter months. Evergreen plants will also benefit by thorough watering throughout the fall to supply the tree with enough moisture to reduce the chances of drying out.

Tender plants in exposed locations need wrapping in burlap to further reduce the drying effect of winter sun and wind (example: Dwarf Alberta Spruce; many upright junipers; some upright and globe cedars).

Evergreens subject to damage by heavy snow falling off roofs or possible damage by freezing rain should be tied with twine or covered with evergreen wrap.

In the autumn the inside (3 year old needles) of Junipers and Cedars turn brown. This is particularly noticeable on newly planted cedars.

Pine and spruce drop one year’s growth of needles, on Scotch Pine 3 year needles turn yellowish then fall off. White pine normally keep only 1 or 2 year’s growth of needles.

This shedding operation is normal and as long as the outside tips are green the plant is quite healthy.