MAPS
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PHOTOS
 On good years, like 2001, Chicoutai (often simply referred to as "berries") grows in peat bogs all along the North Shore, from Seven-Islands ("Sept-Îles") on. But it is a little farther away, on Lower North Shore and Labrador islands and shorelines that the best berries are found. The berry is not very sweet and has a distinctive texture. Some like it fresh off the plant, others prefer it in jams or pies. The berry ripens in the middle of Summer depending on temperature and exposure, changing from bright red to a golden yellow. It is also known as Cloudberry or Bakeapple and as berry-cappel in Newfoundland (for more information, see Canadian Geographic Magazine, January/February 2002, page 98). |
Quebec's Lower North Shore ("Basse Côte Nord") extends from Havre St-Pierre to the Labrador border, along the north shore of the Gulf of St.Lawrence. To get there, you can drive to Quebec city and continue North East on Rte 138. You can also sail on the M.V.Nordik which leaves Rimouski on the South Shore for a weekly round trip. You can also fly from Quebec City or Seven Islands.
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A couple of miles beyond Natashquan, Rte 138 turns into a gravel road and comes to an end, some 800 miles from its start in Montreal. It took 20 years to extend the road from Seven Islands to Havre St-Pierre, and another 20 years for it to reach Natashquan. At this rate, few North Coasters expect to see it reach the Labrador border during their life time... |
 The kayak loading rituals start on the Natashquan public wharf, the night before we are scheduled to leave on the M.V.Nordik. This coastal freighter will bring us to Harrington Harbour.The M.V.Nordik starts its round trip in Rimouski. It sails to Seven Islands, Port Menier (on beautiful and wild Anticosti Island), Havre St-Pierre and Natashquan. It then supplies 6 isolated villages along the Lower North Shore before reaching Blanc Sablon and turning back. We're boarding her in Natashquan and it will drop us in Harrington Harbour. We will paddle from there to St-Augustine.
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Photos : Marie Falquet
Design and production
: J.M. Falquet. December 2001.