Pangnirtung, an Inuit settlement just 60 km south of the polar circle on Baffin Island, Nunavut, Canada; has about 1200 inhabitants, mostly Inuit. From here a small open boat takes one to the park, (seen far away (50km) in the background).

Photographed on July 15, 1997 at 11:00 p.m.

Inukshuk is the Inuit name for these stone markers, that are placed in the northern landscape. It means "That which has the likeness of a human being" This one is placed at the polar circle. Beyond it, the western edge of the Penny Ice Cap and two glaciers spilling into the valley.

Most of the mountainous plateau of this 21.000 square Km. park is covered by the Penny Ice Cap a remnant of the birthplace of the last Ice Age. Here we experience the fierce winds, super-cooled by an expanse of 300 m. thick ice, that causes frigid clouds to cascade down the ragged valley edge.

Successive glaciations of Eastern North- America originated here in the mountains of Baffin Island. The abrasive action of these huge glaciers created a 4 km. wide, 100 km. long valley. The granite debris of this action is now dispersed throughout half the east side of North America.

In June and July "the land that never melts" (the Inuit meaning of Auyuittuq) baths in the northern everlasting sun. Here we see Mount Thor immersed in the bright early evening light obscured by an imposing glacial rock dam that seems to obstruct our quest.

Later that night, from the top of the rock dam we see The Mountain, the one-we -came-for, straight up and straight ahead. On its lower, nearly vertical flank, we see the loomingly cast shadow of Mount Odin — a dance of the giants. Down the valley, the Penny Ice Cap, cold, clear and beckoning.

Midday, one of those bright cool arctic days. We are closer to the valley where Thor lives, carrying ten days worth of food, warm clothes and lodging over rather treacherous terrain, a wild combination of dunes and loose rocks. We are hoping not to fall in the Weasel river below.

The many glaciers surrounding the valley melt on warm days like this one; this sends a rush of wild melt water down the slope. Crossing it (inevitable) is a very cold and dangerous endeavour as the very cold rushing waist- deep water is liberally mixed with dislodged rocks of great size.

The North view of Mount Thor, with the Fork Beard Glacier that was melting on this hot day (10°C), consequently it was dropping box car-sized boulders down the lip of the glacier, down the mountain side. This was happening all around us, making it an incredible 3-D sound experience.

We reluctantly turn back from this incredible place, having been immersed by timeless signs of the past, still resonating today. For a while we will visit the hamlet of Pangnirtung, making contact with the people that are part of this land as they have been for thousands of years. We will be back.