We have this time/speed chart inside the clear tennis ball container, and have tied a lead to the cord bitter end for a lead line. The lead, line and tennis ball all stow away in the container.

Especially when beating (headed toward the wind at about 40 degrees from dead on), the turbulence generated by the keel, causes the winch cable to resonate. This may be reduced somewhat, by slackening the cable a little. I've grown fond of the hum. It works like an audible knotmeter. The faster you're going, the louder and higher pitched the hum. Just before hitting hull speed, ours reverberates between a low and high pitch. You rarely get the hum on broad reach or run.

A. This depends on your loaded boats displacement, how far you intend to motor, and the conditions that may be encountered.

Serendipity came with a 3.9 hp Volvo Penta (yes they made outboards) with a 2 blade prop. This would push her 4.3 mph in flat conditions. However with 3 foot steep waves and a 20 knot wind on the nose we stood perfectly still at full throttle.

We've since mounted a 5 hp Mariner with a 3 blade prop. This will push her to hull speed in flat conditions with about 20% throttle to spare. Originally I wanted a 6 - 8 hp. Now I question if the reserve power of the 8 hp would warrant the additional weight.

A. All season long there’s a fair bit of cleaning to keep her ship shape. You’ll need a long handled brush and a bucket with a 6 foot rope tied to the handle (doubles as a bailing device to meet safety requirements).

It’s been said that the most reliable bilge pump, is a bucket in the hand of a frightened man (person now I guess) in a sinking boat.

All chuckling aside, at the start of the season you’ll have to scrub the winter scuds off, and then wax the hull and deck (you'll need special cleaner for the nonskid parts). If you leave the boat in the water, you’ll have to mask the boot stripe (water line) and paint the bottom with anti fouling paint. We use VC 17 that normally runs about C$45 per litre, but can often be picked up at a discount at boat shows. A litre will just cover the hull, keel and rudder. Don’t throw the roller or foam brush out. Let it dry and store it. Next season, the instant you dunk them in the VC 17, the old paint will instantly dissolve and the brush and roller will be like new.

We take the tiller off, whenever we leave the boat so we only have to sand and varnish it ever 2 years. The teak hand rails, companionway trim and keel winch brace can be left natural, but look a lot better if you scrub them with spic and span and bronze wool (not steel, it leaves rust stains). Rinse them off with freshwater, and after they’re dry, give them a couple coats of boiled linseed oil. They’ll just start to fade by the end of the season. Some people varnish or stain the teak, but I prefer the look of them oiled.

Other than that, empty all gas out your outboard at the end of the season and store it some place warm. Inspect the standing and running rigging every spring.

Expect good quality dacron sails to stay in good shape (not racing shape) for about 7 years of heavy use (assuming main is covered and jib is removed when not in use). If you have them professionally cleaned every three years, you could get 9 or 10 years use.

When we’re just stopped to anchor overnight, we often just slip the sail bag over the jib while it’s still hanked on and then tie it off to the bow pulpit (if there’s no storm in the forecast).

Before every use, check your trailer tires for pressure and weather checking, and grease the bearings (bearing buddies strongly recommended). Grease the bearings immediately after a haul out.

If you rent a slip for the season (and you’ll likely sail a lot more if you do), then it’ll cost ya.

We’ve spend a lot on "cruising stuff", modifications and upgrades for Serendipity, but she really didn’t need anything to be sailable when we bought her. For about $1000/yr you can add a lot of neat gadgets over a period of time, and a 20 foot season's slip from May to October in Ontario ranges between $500 - $1000, depending on location and facilities.

(For slightly larger boats, a VHF, GPS, or Loran would be expected as standard not premiums)

From this total, start depreciating everything that hasn’t been kept in "like new condition". Deduct completely the cost of "new" for anything that should be replaced and to add anything that should've already been added (safety gear, nav. gear, full sail inventory) compared to similar boats her size.

General Deductions: