Frequently Asked Questions
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|How Rough Will She Take It?||"Thanks for the flush deck and high coamings Mr. Hess!"|
|How Tender Is She?||...at this point your standin' on your ear!|
|How Fast Does She Go?||Have you ever heard the definition of sailing?|
|How Can You Tell Your Speed?||Make a Poorman's depthsounder/knotmeter!|
|Why Does It Hum While Sailing?||Because it doesn't know the words! ;-)|
|What Size Outboard?||5-6 HP with a 3 blade prop seems about right!|
|What About Maintenance?||Very little required, lots usually done!|
|What's A Fair Price?||10% less than these calculations is a real good deal!|
Following are some frequently asked questions from the Trailer Sailor Message Board and specific Ensenada 20 queries through Sailnet.
Q. How rough will she take it?
A. The Ensenada 20 will take more than youd expect.
In 4 foot (trough to crest) very steep waves as long as you have wind, shell reach and run with very little roll. (If anyone starts to turn a little green, get them out of the cabin, eyes focused on horizon, and dont read, it should pass in a few minutes, if not gone too far). Close-hauled in 4 foot waves some spray will reach the cockpit but you can duck behind the raised pop-top (with dodger installed) to stay dry. Boarding waves (> 5 feet) tend to roll off the flush deck, whereas they are often directed back to the cockpit on the windward side deck of many trunk cabin boats. "Thanks for the flush deck and high forward coamings Mr. Hess".
Q. How tender is the Ensenada 20?
A. Typical for a 20 foot trailerable sailboat.
With almost exactly a 3:1 displacement to ballast ratio, and almost 10 lbs displacement for each square foot of sail area, the E20 would be stiffer than average. However, with some of the keel carried above the hull bottom, and substantial weight aloft with the heavy spreaderless mast, the E20 comes out about average.
|With full main and 110% jib the E20 heels:
|With enough experience, you can estimate windspeed, by the amount of heel. In this photo (shot in Parry Sound Ont.) we're heeling about 20 degrees, putting the windspeed at around 12 knots, and SOG (speed over ground) at about 5.5 knots.|
...and shell round up (rudder comes out of the water and she automatically turns into the wind and levels) at just over 50 degrees (youre standin on your ear at this point).
You should be at hull speed somewhere between 15 and 20 degrees of heel, and you won't go any faster by healing more. However, without infinitely variable reefing, if you reduce sail too early, you may have difficulty making good headway.
While its fun to put the rail down, it does get tiring after a while, so when the thrill starts wearing off, we generally reduce sail at 30 degrees heel to drop back to about 15 degrees as follows:
|Full main and jib to 15 knots|
|Reefed main and jib from 15 to 25 knots|
|Full main from 25 to 35 knots|
|Reefed main above 35 knots|
The worst "blow" weve been caught in to date was a sunny (thank God) 45 knots on the nose. With reefed main alone we couldnt do better than a beam reach (OK it was a bit of a scramble to get the reef in and the shape wasn't great), and raced about a mile constantly on the verge of rounding up, till we ducked behind an island and anchored until the calm of the next morning.
Q. How fast does the Ensenada 20 go?
A. All displacement (non-planing) boats are limited by the water line length (LWL). The E20 LWL = 17.5 ft, putting the theoretical hull speed at 5.6 knots (6.4 mph).
The theoretical hull speed may be used as a reference to compare the relative maximum speed of boats with differing waterline lengths. In reality, the conditions required (optimum sail efficiency, minimum drag, and sufficient wind force for sail area) may not exist to achieve "hull speed". Similarly, it is possible to exceed 5.6 knots by surfing (catching waves from astern such that the speed limiting bow and stern waves slide forward in unison with the wind wave).
From a racing standpoint, there is little PHRF data available due to the limited number of E20's being raced. Current listings rate the PHRF from 288 (which seems a little fast) to 317 (which seems a little slow). There is currently a Calfornia Club reference to an Ensenada with a 264 PHRF rating, however this is believed to apply to a home built Ensenada 25 (different design altogether) with a cutter rig. Using PHRF data, under identical conditions a boat rated 317 should take 29 seconds longer than one rated 288, to travel a mile. (317-288 = 29).
For cruising purposes (assuming 8+ knots of wind) we expect to average 3 mph. Our best days sail to date was was from Kagawong on Manitoulin Island to Heywood Island, (approx. 30 miles) in just over 5 hours, including a short stop at Little Current to reprovision, get a pumpout, fill coolers with ice, and about a 5 minute wait for the swing bridge to open. (OK, we also turned off our broad reach in 20 knots to occasionally surf on the odd 5 foot wave).
The best recorded speed over ground (SOG) made good to date was on a dead run up Long Reach, with swing keel up, and 15 knots astern. We surfed on a 2 foot wave for about 2 minutes hitting 8 mph. (If youre used to power boats this sounds pretty slow, but its quite a thrill when youre sailing).
Q. How do you know how fast youre going?
A. If you have a knot log, no problem. Serendipity doesnt yet.
Weve found the speed readout on our GPS to only be accurate if you average the reading over 2 - 3 minutes (assuming the wind is pretty steady).
For more accurate speed, tie a 51 foot 1/4" nylon braid to a tennis ball and cleat the loose end off at the stern cleat. Drop the ball into the water over the side (at the stern cleat). Time how long it takes the 50 ft cord (1 foot for cleat tie off and angle compensation) to become taught.
|TIME||KNOTS||Miles Per Hour (statute)||Kilometers Per Hour|
|30 sec||1 knot||1.15 mph||1.84 kph|
|15 sec||2 knots||2.3 mph||3.68 kph|
|10 sec||3 knots||3.45 mph||5.52 kph|
|7.5 sec||4 knots||4.6 mph||7.36 kph|
|6 sec||5 knots||5.75 mph||9.2 kph|
|5 sec||6 knots||6.9 mph||11.04 kph|
|4.25 sec||7 knots||8.05 mph||12.88 kph|
|3.75 sec||8 knots||9.2 mph||14.72 kph|
We have this time/speed chart inside the clear tennis ball container, and have tied a lead to the cord bitter end for a lead line. The lead, line and tennis ball all stow away in the container.
Q. Why does it hum when sailing?
A. All swing keel boats do.
Especially when beating (headed toward the wind at about 40 degrees from dead on), the turbulence generated by the keel, causes the winch cable to resonate. This may be reduced somewhat, by slackening the cable a little. I've grown fond of the hum. It works like an audible knotmeter. The faster you're going, the louder and higher pitched the hum. Just before hitting hull speed, ours reverberates between a low and high pitch. You rarely get the hum on broad reach or run.
Q. What size of outboard motor do I need?
A. This depends on your loaded boats displacement, how far you intend to motor, and the conditions that may be encountered.
Serendipity came with a 3.9 hp Volvo Penta (yes they made outboards) with a 2 blade prop. This would push her 4.3 mph in flat conditions. However with 3 foot steep waves and a 20 knot wind on the nose we stood perfectly still at full throttle.
We've since mounted a 5 hp Mariner with a 3 blade prop. This will push her to hull speed in flat conditions with about 20% throttle to spare. Originally I wanted a 6 - 8 hp. Now I question if the reserve power of the 8 hp would warrant the additional weight.
Q. What kind of maintenance is required?
A. All season long theres a fair bit of cleaning to keep her ship shape. Youll need a long handled brush and a bucket with a 6 foot rope tied to the handle (doubles as a bailing device to meet safety requirements).
Its been said that the most reliable bilge pump, is a bucket in the hand of a frightened man (person now I guess) in a sinking boat.
All chuckling aside, at the start of the season youll have to scrub the winter scuds off, and then wax the hull and deck (you'll need special cleaner for the nonskid parts). If you leave the boat in the water, youll have to mask the boot stripe (water line) and paint the bottom with anti fouling paint. We use VC 17 that normally runs about C$45 per litre, but can often be picked up at a discount at boat shows. A litre will just cover the hull, keel and rudder. Dont throw the roller or foam brush out. Let it dry and store it. Next season, the instant you dunk them in the VC 17, the old paint will instantly dissolve and the brush and roller will be like new.
We take the tiller off, whenever we leave the boat so we only have to sand and varnish it ever 2 years. The teak hand rails, companionway trim and keel winch brace can be left natural, but look a lot better if you scrub them with spic and span and bronze wool (not steel, it leaves rust stains). Rinse them off with freshwater, and after theyre dry, give them a couple coats of boiled linseed oil. Theyll just start to fade by the end of the season. Some people varnish or stain the teak, but I prefer the look of them oiled.
Other than that, empty all gas out your outboard at the end of the season and store it some place warm. Inspect the standing and running rigging every spring.
Expect good quality dacron sails to stay in good shape (not racing shape) for about 7 years of heavy use (assuming main is covered and jib is removed when not in use). If you have them professionally cleaned every three years, you could get 9 or 10 years use.
When were just stopped to anchor overnight, we often just slip the sail bag over the jib while its still hanked on and then tie it off to the bow pulpit (if theres no storm in the forecast).
Before every use, check your trailer tires for pressure and weather checking, and grease the bearings (bearing buddies strongly recommended). Grease the bearings immediately after a haul out.
If you rent a slip for the season (and youll likely sail a lot more if you do), then itll cost ya.
Weve spend a lot on "cruising stuff", modifications and upgrades for Serendipity, but she really didnt need anything to be sailable when we bought her. For about $1000/yr you can add a lot of neat gadgets over a period of time, and a 20 foot season's slip from May to October in Ontario ranges between $500 - $1000, depending on location and facilities.
Q. How much should I have to pay for a used E-20?
A. The answer is pretty much the same as for any similar sized/quality boat of the same era.
Start with C$7000 for a well found E-20 with full sail inventory, trailer, and outboard in like new condition. Add premiums and subtract deductions as listed below. The resultant price should be pretty close to fair market value. Note that a boat with little "stuff" may have a low price, but may not be a good value, as you'll have to pay the "New" price for most stuff you'll add later. (Yes you will!)
For pricing in US dollars multiply the result by .55 on the coasts, or .65 in central states (sorry guys).
Add premiums for:
|Reefing/furling head sail (+$1500 - $200 for each year old)|
|SS framed dodger (+$800 - $100 for each year old)|
|SS framed bimini (+$500 - $50 for each year old)|
|Complete (real not a tarp) cockpit enclosure (+$500 - $50/yr old)|
|VHF radio (+$200 - $20/yr old)|
|GPS (+$200 - $20/yr old)|
|4 stroke outboard (+$500)|
|Oversized (> 6HP) outboard (+$50/HP)|
|Hard dinghy with oars (+$500)|
|Inflatable with 9.9 HP motor ($3000 - $200/dinghy yr old - $100/outboard yr old)|
|Dual axle trailer (+$300)|
|Brakes (+$500 for surge, +$300 for electric)|
|Propane barbeque (+$150)|
|Galvanized trailer (+$300)|
(For slightly larger boats, a VHF, GPS, or Loran would be expected as standard not premiums)
From this total, start depreciating everything that hasnt been kept in "like new condition". Deduct completely the cost of "new" for anything that should be replaced and to add anything that should've already been added (safety gear, nav. gear, full sail inventory) compared to similar boats her size.
|Hull: minor cosmetic blisters, - $200/requires epoxy bottom -$500|
|Hull: no blisters but significant cracks or gouges other than gelcoat craze -$500|
|Deck: Minor gelcoat crazes -$200, excessive gelcoat craze, or any soft spot -$500|
|Rudder: Missing - $300, damaged -$50|
|Keel: Grounding damage or excessive rust -$300|
|Sails: Genoa: a little dirty/baggy/repaired -$200, missing -$500|
|Sails: Spinnaker: a little dirty/pole missing - $200, missing - $500|
|Sails: Main and Jib: a little dirty/baggy/repaired -$500, real dirty/baggy -$1000|
|Standing Rig: Each kinked shroud or stay -$60|
|Running Rig: Each frayed line -$20|
|Outboard: missing -$600 or -$25 for every year older than 10|
|Undersized (< 5HP) outboard: -$50/HP|
|New Galvanized Trailer: +$800|
|Life lines: -$200 if none (-$500 for bigger boats where standard equipment)|
|Stern rail: -$200 if none (-$500 for bigger boats where standard equipment)|
|PFD's (4 min):-$20 for each missing or in poor condition|
|Flares (6 min): -$5 for each missing or more than 3 years old|
|Oars or paddles: -$40 if missing|
|Fire extinguishers (2 min): -$20 for each missing|
|Anchor: -$100 if missing, else -$20 if no chain on rode|
|Main Compass: -$125 if missing|
|Hand Bearing Compass: -$50 if missing|
|Depth Sounder: -$150 if none|
|Knot/Log Meter: -$200 if none|
|Dividers and Walking Rule: -$25 if none|
|Binoculars: -$50 if none|
|First Aid Kit: -$20 if none|
|Floating heaving line: -$25 if none|
|Exterior lights: -$20 for each broken or foggy|
|-$100 if no stove (-$300 for bigger boats where standard equipment)|
|-$30 if no cooler/ice chest|
|-$150 if no porta potti|
|-$100 if no pots,utensils, dishes, glasses|
|No Trailer: -$1000|
|Rust: -$200 for exposed surface rust, -$500 for rust perforation|
|Flat Tires: -$50/each (total deduction if unserviceable for any reason, including spare)|
|Broken Lights: -$20/broken lens|
|Light(s) Not Functioning: -$75 (could be a bulb, could be total wiring harness replacement).|
|Bow Stop Missing: -$50|
|Winch Missing: -$50 (total deduction if unserviceable for any reason)|
|Broken or Flat Spring: -$25 each|
|Bearing Buddies: -$50 if none|
|Return To Top of Page||Is that 'nuff Ensenada 20 info for ya!|