• Bond ISM V-Neck Mohair Cardigan Jacket with Beaded Front and Crochet Ribbon Trim
    Bond Ultimate Knitting Contest 2000
    Second Prize Winner

    ( SHIMAC 2000)

    *********The unfinished cardigan modelled by Miki.*********
    Cardigan Picture

    Materials: -mohair or mohair type yarn - 375 grams (approx. 630 metres)
    -ribbon yarn - approx. 75-80 grams depending on how tightly you crochet
    -waste yarn - worsted weight
    -beads of your choice making sure the hole will accommodate 2 strands of main yarn
    -for handmade buttons - six 1/2 inch plastic rings, otherwise, use purchased buttons
    -crochet hooks sizes 3 and 4 mm
    -key plate 4, weighted hem and some small claw weights
    -a beading tool is helpful, but a latch tool from a standard machine, or a 4 inch length of thin wire folded into U-shape works well too
    -yarn needle

    > GAUGE: 15 stitches and 18 rows to 4 inches with keyplate 4

    Size: fits woman's size 34-38 bust. Body length, back neck to edge-25". Sleeve from underarm to wrist-18". Loose fitting.


    NOTE: Before starting, if you intend to do beadwork on the upper bodice, CLICK HERE for the Beading Graph. Print it out and use to design your custom beaded design. Use your Back button to return to this page.

    BACK: Hang hem on 82 needles and work 5 or 6 rows waste yarn. End carriage left. Change to main yarn, and knit 103 rows even. (Carriage is on right).

    SHAPE SHOULDERS: Cast off the first 26 stitches on right using crochet cast off. Knit over the rest of the stitches. (COL). Cast off the first 26 stitches on left using the crochet cast off. Knit over the rest of the stitches, then cast of the remaining middle stitches and end off. Break yarn.

    LEFT FRONT: Hang hem on 41 needles and work 5 or 6 rows waste yarn. End carriage left. Change to main yarn, and knit 55 rows even. (Carriage is on right). Now referring to your completed beading chart, work the decreases as shown (1 stitch neck side every third row until there are 26 stitches remaining) placing beads as indicated . Try to leave 3 stitches free of beads on the edges to simplify assembly. Beads are threaded onto the desired stitch using the bead tool or a latch hook and the stitch is rehung. Push the bead through to the right side before knitting the next row. Bind off at row 105. Remove hem, and block or steam lightly.

    RIGHT FRONT : as per left but reverse shaping and beading pattern. Remove hem, and block or steam lightly.

    SLEEVES: Make 2 - Hang hem on 48 needles and work 5 or 6 rows waste yarn. End carriage left. Change to main yarn, and knit 3 rows even. *Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row, and knit that row. Knit 4 rows more straight.* Repeat these two steps until there are 76 stitches. Knit 4 rows straight and bind off. Remove hem, and block or steam lightly.

    ASSEMBLE: Join shoulder seams. Sew sleeves to shoulders, matching centre top of sleeve with shoulder seam. Sew sleeve seams from armpit to wrisit, then from armpit down to bottom of sweater.

    CUFF TRIM: Using ribbon yarn, with right side of sleeve facing, fold waste yarn towards you, then work 1 single crochet into each stitch around. Slip stitch to join, chain one, then single crochet in every stitch around. Repeat until you have five rows of single crochet. Finish with one round of Crab Stitch (backwards single crochet). Remove waste yarn.

    FRONT AND NECK BANDS: Round 1 - Using the size 4 mm hook and ribbon yarn, right side (knit side) facing you, start at the front bottom corner and work one round of single crochet evenly spaced up one front edge, across the back of the neck, down the other front edge, making three stitches in the corner for a smooth turn, then work along the bottom to the beginning of the round, finishing with three stitches in the last corner stitch and slip-stitch to join. DO NOT CUT YARN. As you work, keep checking the stitches are not too close together or too tight, or the edge will ripple.
    Round 2 - Chain 1, then repeat round 1. DO NOT CUT YARN.
    Round 3 - Using pins or snippets of contrasting yarn, mark the placement of your 6 buttons, starting 1/2 up from what is now the bottom edge placing the last one 1/2 inch below the start of the neck shaping. Chain 1. Single crochet to 2 stitches before your marker. *Chain 4, skip the next 4 stitches and single crochet into 5th stitch. Continue in single crochet to 2 stitches before the next marker.* Repeat from * to * until the last buttonhole is made. Continue to work around in single crochet to the start. Slip-stitch to join. DO NOT CUT YARN.
    Round 4 - Chain 1. Work around once more as per round 2 working 4 stitches into the loop formed by the chain 4 of round 3.
    Round 5 - as per round 2.
    Round 6 - work a final row of Crab Stitch. Finish by slip-stitching into the first stitch, cutting yarn and ending off. Weave in all ends. Sew buttons in place below holes.

    BUTTONS: Using a 1/2 inch ring, size 3 mm hook and ribbon yarn, work 18-20 single crochet stitches into the ring. Cut ribbon, leaving a 6 inch length. Slide the stitches in towards the centre of the ring, so the outer edge of the rings is covered by smooth stitches, and the centre contains the single crochet stitches. Thread the yarn end on a yarn needle and use it to secure the bunched up stitches in the centre of the ring. I f you wiggle them around as you sew, they will form a rosette shape which is quite attractive. When you are pleased with the design, backstitch a few times in the back of the button and and off. An alternate method is to weave a length of ribbon back and forth and around the ring in a pattern like spokes on a wheel, then secure with a few overlapping X-shaped stitches in the middle. I prefer the rosette buttons but that is just my personal choice.